LS (linked freestanding) Our frames provide exceptional strength, venting and growing performance.
The frame is fabricated on site, a standard 15 amp, 110 v. outlet is required, and 1,000 sq. ft. of un-paved ground.
Galvanized steel tube frame: arches: 1-5/16" diameter (.079“ wall thickness), 4’ apart steel tube cross ties: 1-5/16” diameter, 8’ apart except the ends ground posts: 1” X 36” (driven into grade, by others) purlins: ridge is drilled: sidewall purlins at eaves, 1-5/16" diameter wind braces and post diagonals: 1-516" diameter polylock: end arches, sides. gable ends: steel tube framing doors: - single panel 40” wide X 84”, sliding doors, steel tube frame, covered with poly poly: single layer, 6 mil, 4 year, heat-saver roll ups: both sides (to the eaves) and 4 roof vents: 1-5/16” roll up tubes; tubegrips; webstrap restraining system; inline cranks for the sidewalls, chain pull for the roof sidewall poly skirts: a run of tubing is installed 28” above grade on the outside of the wall, UV stabalized poly is attached with tubegrips, at grade, soil is piled onto the poly. installation: the price includes installing all of the quoted materials; the ground posts are driven - additional charges will be incurred if an alternative anchor system is required.
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How To:
SEQUENCE OF ASSEMBLY ls or s-series
WORK SAFE!
1) Prepare the site. A flat site is preferred however the greenhouse can be built on a uniformed slope.
2) Layout the job, measurements are taken from center to center of the posts.
3)
Drive the posts, a post pounder (typically a large bolt with a washer)
is supplied to ensure that the posts do not become excessively
misshaped. Trim the post tops if the arches will not fit into the post. 3a) Auger the holes and set the posts in concrete.
4) Assemble the arches (with the loop end of the stay cables attached) on level ground and stand them up on the posts. 4a) Cross ties: layout the first arch/cross tie assembly and then use the measurement from the ridge bracket/arch joint to the cross tie pipestrap to position the rest
5) Install the purlins. Ridge purlins above
the ridge bracket. The ridge purlin goes below the ridge bracket at the
end arches, only. Connect the side purlins to the end arch with a
pipestrap - the end holes (for the bracket) are already drilled in the
tube.
6) Install the baseboard lumber.
7)
Check the house to ensure that it is perpendicular to grade. If the
house is out of plumb, then attach a cable to the end arch V-bracket and
pull the house (to perpendicular).
8) Once the house is plumb the diagonal braces are installed as per the drawing.
9) Frame the gable ends, as per the drawing and install the door(s).
10) Install the blower motor (double poly houses only).
11)
Install the sringlock channel on the end arches, side purlins, gable
baseboards and door perimeter. Use a hexhead driver with your variable
speed drill, the self drilling, self tapping screws do not require any
pre-drilling. Start the first piece of channel at the bottom (hold in
place with vice grips) and bend to match the arch, install a screw
every 16”. For houses with rigid gable coverings (twinwall or corrugated
polycarbonate) install the end arch flashing at the same time.
12)
Install the roof poly - use the lines and folds to ensure the poly is
square to the frame. Check to ensure there is sufficient overhangs for
locking devises.
13) Attach the poly to the end arches.
For double poly houses connect the inflation unit and the gable jumpers
before locking the poly to the end arches.
14) For houses with roll up sides, attach the poly to the purlins at the top of the roll wall. 14a) For houses without roll up sides, attach the poly to the baseboard lumber.
15)
Finish building the roll up sides. Install the strap sets next to the
arches. Assemble the roll-up tubes (with splices) on top of the bushing -
screw the splices. Wrap the poly around the tube once. When the
positioning is completed attach the poly to the roll up tube with
tubegrips (or tubelock).
16) Attach the strap set to the springlock .
17) Cover the gable ends.
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